DOWN THE LINE Surf Talk Radio

Jan 15, 2012 Down The Line Surf Talk Radio San Diego and heard around the world via iTunes podcast

Bassy n Baldy with ya every Sunday -858.570.1360 call us if you want to talk surf or email us at surftalksandiego at gmail dot com twitter ATsacredcraftexpo or ATjeffbaldy

BoardArtBenefit with Matt Beard : The Board Art Benefit is a project designed to bring leading artists and shapers together to create original works of art utilizing surfboards for the purpose of raising support for Surf Aid International.

Jan 21. Sat night 6-9pm here in San Diego in Solana Beach at the Aaron Chang Gallery in the Cedros design district

Top 5 stories of the Week
#1 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout – congrats to REEF McIntosh for winning! Check the video below.

2012 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout Day2 Highlights from Prickett Films on Vimeo.

Top 5 stories of the Week
#1 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout – congrats to REEF McIntosh for winning .
There is huge amount of “Pipeline Only Experts” on the North Shore and this is one of their events to shine. My opinion is this, when I watch the Pipeline Masters I see the same incredible tubes being made and the same amount of wipeouts. There are guys on tour that don’t want any part of mean 10′ Pipe. But for the most part I think the gap between the local Pipeline experts, JOB, JOHN JOHN, Markus Hickman, Healey, Fuller, REEF, Bruce Irons etc. etc. and guys like Ace Buchan, Josh Kerr, Kieran Perrow, Kelly Slater, Joel Parkinson, Mick Fanning, is shrinking and in many cases is barely noticeable.

#2 San Diego Surf Film Festival – The SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL is pleased to announce a call for submissions to all independent surf filmmakers everywhere. SUBMISSION DUE MARCH 31ST. In addition, come celebrate the unique contributions San Diegan’s have made to the surfing community through design and invention. Come one, come all and enjoy the art of surf cinema. The inaugural SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL will be proudly presented at BIRD’S SURF SHED. MAY 11-13, 2012
www.sandiegosurffilmfestival.com

#3 Ted Smith paddle out at Windansea today at noon – sadly Ted Smith an iconic Wndansea local had a heart attack ; he died surfing at a young age. If you were a part of the Wndansea scene you knew Ted Smith.

#4 St. Pete Beach photographer accused of molesting teen surfer
The local photographer took pictures of young male surfers, skimboarders and skateboarders, posted them on popular surfing websites, and promised the exposure would help the boys attract the sponsors. He molested one boy, admitted to the charge via a hidden microphone, and was arrested. Gil Benitz, alias was also Guillermo Trejos. Apparently he had all the high priced equipment and seemed believable.

Attention groms: Don’t befriend any 40-year-old loner photographers who use the word sponsor. Creepy.

#5 Irishman Glenn Hall Wins the Inaugural Hainan Classic at Riyue Bay
Despite smaller conditions on the final day of the competition at the Hainan Classic, the Final was an action-packed, wave-for-wave affair. Glenn ‘Micro’ Hall (IRL) managed to take control early with a long, excellent-scoring wave mid-way through the heat and hold off Royden Bryson (ZAF) in order to be crowned the first-ever champion of the Hainan Classic, an ASP 4-Star Men’s World Tour event.

There are human rights violations in China. It is not a place where you can speak negatively about the communist regime. They do not allow free speech, they do not allow free thought on the internet. In the 80s the ASP boycotted South Africa for backward thinking.

Baldy, are we as surfers, supposedly a free thinking bunch, just going to bury our heads in the sand?

Or is this about the money, new markets, if it means selling board shorts, we look the other way OR is this about keep you friends close and your enemies even closer?

Perhaps we have more power if we infiltrate and impose thru hegemony our western ways.

#6 Shark Bites Board at Nelscott Reef: Surfer Steve Harnack reported; “I had traveled beyond the reef about 200 yards by duck-diving through several waves about 20 feet high. I noticed my board dragging as I moved through the water. I had a jet-ski tow me back to the beach where I noticed a section on the bottom of my board had been struck by a shark. A portion of the fiber-glass had been removed and tooth impressions were also present.”

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Predictions for 2012 :

The ASP drug policy is implemented and moves forward quietly and without issue until someone tests positive for a Performance Enhancing Drug.

Specialty events like the Billabong MUNDAKA Challenge featuring Machado, Occy, Luke Egan, take away even more credibility from the ASP, which is left without any real power. This helps open up the door for the likes of NIKE to create their own specialty events.

USA surfers John Florence & Kolohe Andino have remarkable Australian legs; John Florence will separate himself from Kolohe when big Cloudbreak and Teahupoo present themselves;

A rift will form between the shy Gabe Medina and other surfers on tour; as his shyness comes off as an aloofness, a kid with an attitude. Nobody likes that.

American Josh Kerr will win the world title in 2012.

Kolohe Andino will knock off Kelly Slater from the #1 position at the Surfer Poll awards

November 20, 2011 –  surfing, surfing news, surfing industry, surf – Live every sunday on XTRASPORTS 1360AM IN SAN DIEGO ; internet Xtrasports1360.com ; or iTunes podcast download keyword search “down the line surf”

GMAC’s World Record Proclamation w/ XXL Director Bill Sharp

GMAC’S wave could be 90 feet. It could be 100 feet. I hope it measures 99 feet. I don’t care. I’m not questioning the size. What I’m questioning is the process.
Which organization or authority validates such a claim? Is it the Guinness people? Or XXL? YouTube? Is it George Downing or George Will? Perhaps Jane Kachmer?
This week we talk with Bill Sharp, Director of Billabong’s XXL Global Big Waves Awards Director. There’s been much internet chatter about Garrett McNamara’s huge wave and self-proclaimed world record.

Here are some other “Worlds Biggest Wave” – there’s more than one! Who knew?

 

 

Top 5 Stories:
1) Aussie News article:  http://www.swellnet.com.au/news/2651-kelly-slater-almost-sunk-in-wave-pool-wrangle
2) Please support your favorite flag:  http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/sport/patriotism-flagging-at-surf-contests/story-e6frg7mf-1226197716298
3) Hawaiian Happenings: Rumor floating on Twitter from Shea Lopez that ASP will do away with the mid-year reshuffle of pro surfers; Flat on the North  Shore so far…REEF HAWAIIAN PRO AT Haleiwa – no waves showing up at Haleiwa. They need west swell. Minor norths rolling in.
4) ASP drops Rip Curl Pro Search from 2012 ASP World Tour schedule
5)

 

ERMA EBERLY
We are raising money to pay for Tom Eberly’s wife’s cancer operation.
Erma Eberly Dangla is the mother of three daughters, Rebeca (23), Erin (17) and Tara (15), and is the force behind Tom Eberly’s Nicasurf International Surf Tours. La jefa. We are raising money to pay for Erma’s cancer operation to save her. Please Help us by donating anything you can spare through our paypal account – sean@sanjuansurf.com – all will help and will go straight to the cause. She needs to have an operation now and we are a little bit short, so please help!
Website     http://www.nicasurfinternational.com/

I never mention charities on the air unless I have given and I have given generously. I want you too as well, but only within your means.

Help Matt Warshaw get the Encyclopedia of Surfing on line by donating to the KickStarter Cause. Link below:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1391193483/encyclopedia-of-surfing?ref=live

Nov 3. 2011 – surf news, surf industry insight, surf talk radio

Kelly Slater: Oh sure, he looks happy, but… he's never been to WalMart!

Ok, Kelly Slater has clinched his unprecedented and inspiring 11th World Title. Plenty of people, surf blogs, and PR folks (err… surf mag editors) will discuss this. I’ll leave thatto them. Bottom line: The guy is a class act and makes us all look good.

While he’s spent the better part of his life becoming the surfer and man that he is, people don’t realize he’s missed out on a lot of fun and excitement over the past 20 years.!!

In the spirit and fun of David Letterman’s Top 10 list, here are the Top 11 life pleasures that Kelly Slater has never experienced, at least not in the last 20 years (we think…)!
Kelly Slater, he’s never:

11) Participated in a job interview.
10) He’s never mowed a lawn.
9) Never said “hello” to the WalMart greeter.
Never looked for used furniture on Craigslist.
7) Never had to change his HR health benefits during ‘open enrollment’.
6) Never had to explain WHY it is crucially important that he go surfing.
5) Never been on a dump run.
4) Never made mindless small talk at back-to-school night.
3) Never cleared out the rain gutters.
2) Never purchased a bar of surf wax.
1) Never scrounged for golf balls in the bushes.

You see, while it may seem like Kelly Slater has had the good life, he’s really missed out on a lot of cool stuff. Consider yourselves lucky.

Oct 30 … surf news, surfing industry news, surf talk radio

Audio from Oct 30 Down The Line Surf Talk Radio

Some questions for Joe Turpel:

Who exactly do you work for? The ASP or event sponsors?

Where did you learn to surf?

How did you get involved with ASP webcasting? Broadcasting school?

Is the tour a tight knit circle? Do you eat dinner with the pros? Are there some that are your buds?

Bobby Martinez, have we seen the last of Bobby competing at ASP events?

Dane Reynolds, has the asp fined him enough ? Can he just pay the fines and pick and choose which events he surfs? Does he need to prove himself at Pipe or can he, because of his obvious greatness, get around Hawaii as a proving ground?

Is he cheating his fans? Does he owe us?

San Fran … The Search. Your take… no jet ski assist? Unique situation for the pros? Gabe Medina, weighs about a buck thirty, will some pros not make it out?

Who is your immediate boss?

Production meetings, they tell you what you can and cannot say?

who is the smartest pro on tour?

_________________________

Australian charger Mark Mathews (above) and his cohorts Ryan Hipwood, Richie Vas and Laurie Towner are the world’s leading slab hunters, and according to Paul, “they’re among the craziest surfers alive, and talented too, which is a scary combination. Photographer Tim Bonython stays busy just trying to keep up with them. After a mind-boggling day in Tasmania earlier this year, the boys were walking tall having conquered the ferocious Shipstern’s Bluff with a handful of historic rides. But last week they met a new foe over in Western Australia, and it’s safe to say this one got the better of them. This following is what happened as they tried to take on a wave known only as: The Right.

TOP 5 Stories This Week Oct 30 2011
#1 A Monterey man suffered multiple injuries Saturday morning when he was attacked by a shark while surfing at Marina State Beach.

Eric Tarantino, 27, was bitten on the neck and right forearm by a shark that took a 19-inch chunk from his red surfboard. The attack occurred shortly after 7 a.m., about 10 minutes after he and a friend, Brandon McKibben of Salinas, had entered the water.

With help from McKibben, Tarantino managed to get out of the water, then climbed to the parking lot on his own power, where a half-dozen or more fellow surfers used beach towels to apply a tourniquet to his arm and staunch the bleeding from his neck.

Paramedics arrived just minutes later and treated Tarantino at the scene before transporting him to Marina Municipal Airport, from which he was airlifted to San Jose Regional Medical Center.

Dana M. Jones, Monterey Sector Superintendent for the California Department of Parks and Recreation, said his injuries did not appear to be life threatening.

Jones said signs will be posted along beaches from Fort Ord to Moss Landing advising of shark danger, recommending that beach-goers refrain from any water activities over the next seven days. The sand portion of the beaches will remain open, and the the waters will be observed in the coming days for additional shark activity, Jones said.

#2 Will Vans make Dane compete in the Triple Crown?
We know he doesn’t care … so why should Vans? Besides the contract and all that… And can Dane’s case of over-it-itis extend to Hawaii, where, according to all we believe in as consumers of Western surf culture, you must prove yourself… or has Dane trumped even the Holy Grail of surf culture, “to achieve greatness, you must prove it in Hawaii.”

C’mon, you know Dane doesn’t want to wallow around in the burdensome ego-filled front yards of the washed up, scrapping for ego-points (way worse than contest points) and having his Coors light spiked with urine flavored energy drink when he could be exploring Western Saharan right points and learning Berber via Rosetta Stone & MacBook! Pending HD space, of course.

#3 Kerr Ignites Waddell Creek at ASP PRIME O’Neill Cold Water Classic California
The ASP PRIME O’Neill Cold Water Classic California utilized both the primary venue of Steamer Lane and the backup location of Waddell Creek today to complete both the Round of 24 and the three-man non-elimination Round of 12.

Josh Kerr (AUS), 27, who posted the highest scores of yesterday’s competition, returned to form today at Waddell creek and took to the air on his backhand to net the day’s highest scores including a 16.77 (out of 20) heat total to advance through to the Quarterfinals.

#4 The 14-day holding period of the $85,000 HIC PRO, presented by Vans, opens today at Sunset Beach. Organizers have elected to call a lay day today in preparation for a solid new swell that is forecast for Monday and Tuesday.

The HIC PRO is a 4-Star ASP men’s event that will decide the 2011 ASP Hawaii regional champion and reward him with one highly coveted berth into the first two events of the Vans Triple Crown, presented by Rockstar Energy Drink, Nov.12-Dec.20. The HIC PRO requires three full days of competition to crown a champion.

“It looks like we’ve got great swell on tap for Monday and Tuesday – somewhere in the range of 8-12 feet,” said Event Director Marty Thomas. “We will continue to assess the surf each morning from today, but at this stage Monday looks like the most probable start.

#5 With thirty-six of the word’s best surfers descending on the north stretch of Ocean Beach for the Rip Curl Pro Search surf contest—the first major San Francisco surf contest—the City becomes the unlikely focal point of the professional surfing industry Nov. 1-12.

surf news, surf industry, surfing insight

Oct 23, 2011 –

Bruce Irons talks about the massive beast at Teahupoo that took his board shorts. Bruce is getting better.

Surf News – Top 5 Stories of the Week Oct 23rd
:
#1 Kelly Slater’s Board in Smithsonian National Museum of American History.

KellySlater, 39, has helped progress surfing and represented the sport in a positive manner, and this week it was announced that the Floridian has donated one of his boards to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.
“Over the past 20 years, his approach to surfing as a professional and dedicated philanthropist has changed how people surf and view the sport,” said Jane Rogers, curator at the museum, which collects and preserves items of American heritage to portray the American experience.The board is on display in the museum’s first-floor Artifact Walls exhibit.

Is there a better representation of and / or for surfing? Tom Blake paddleboard? A Simmons post WWII tech inspired foam n fiberglass?

#2 Slater wrap up 11th title @ Rip Curl Search – San Fran – they used Travelocity to SEARCH for this one.
From TransworldSURF:

“If this was any other event on the ASP schedule (Kelly’s won them all) it’d be hard to envision an early exit—but in San Francisco, at Ocean Beach, and without the use of Jet Ski assistance of any sort, the playing field may be leveled to the point that an early Slater loss is not entirely out of the question. Long shot, yes, but still possible. Man versus (hopefully) large Ocean Beach peaks might just make things interesting.”

#3 GW Shark hunt in West Oz as 3rd diver is taken out by 10′ great white; they are protected, but Oz govt issuing killing orders for what they feel is a rogue GWS that is responsible. a culling of GWS is not out of the picture.

Another surfer in NWest hit by massive GW Shark with photos of his …LOST Surfboard showing a gargantuan bite / Jaws mark.

#4 Twitter News/Faves: @Danes_neckbeard, @WhoisJOB, @Daynolds, some real ego clashing going on. During their best moments they are funny, insightful, stinging, at there worst they are haters, ignorant or trying to hard. Sort of like us on DTL radio? Internet everyone is a comedian or a hater or a know it all… or should I say “NOW” it all. So instantaneous, this web thingy.

#5 ISA World Masters Finals day in El Salvador with Sarlo O50, Curren, Hogan O45 in the Grand Finals. Does anyone care?

October 16, 2011 Surfing News; Surf News Quiksilver Dane Reynolds Top 10 moments

Dane Reynolds’ virulent strain

By: Chris Mauro, GrindTV.com

Given all the Dane Reynolds hype of late it’s easy to understand how Daneofilia (DANE-oh-FEEL -yah) is now infecting a wide swath of today’s young surfing prodigies. Some doctors describe the disease as a virulent strain of languorous behavior, others refer to it as syndrome more commonly known as the fuck-its.

Notable young talents (especially those residing along the surf-industry-laden California coast) run the highest risks of contracting this virus, but the symptoms typically flair up once they’ve left their comfy little pond for the bigger, badder world of global talent, where they soon discover winning isn’t nearly as easy as they, their publicist, biographers, videographers, agents, managers, coaches, bloggers and astrologers, thought it would be.

Consumed by self doubt, they begin to question not just the nipple they’ve been sucking on since they got their first pair of free trunks, but the very body producing all the nourishment. And the fleeting nature of their most flavored surfer status hits hard. If things don’t work out…they soon discover…they’re replaceable. At the end of the day they’re just tools. Marketing tools. Being exploited to sell wares. Oh the horror.

The lucky ones, like Dane Reynolds, seemingly have a choice in this matter. They can make a career out of being anti-pros, choosing to go down a “soul surfing” route filled with cameras and cameos. The vast majority of pros don’t really have that luxury.

Take Adriano de Souza, who by most measuring sticks is the anti-Dane. They both love surfing, no doubt, but Adriano actually thrives in competition. That makes him incredibly uncool in hipster circles. After all, he always gives 100% (what a jock!) He loves to claim (kook!), and what’s with that (fugly) wide stance? All that annoying hard work and touchdown dance behavior makes Adriano the tour’s perfect villain.

But look deeper into his story and you might begin to see things differently. While growing up in a poor corner Sau Paulo Brazil there were years when his next meal wasn’t guaranteed. He and his family fought hard for everything they had, and when the remote possibility of a surfing career first became possible he had to leave home for good to chase it.

Thanks to hard work and dedication he’s succeeded beyond his wildest dreams. Today both his mother and brother are living in houses that Adriano provided with his winnings. Knowing all that, you might understand the passion behind the claims, and you may even start respecting some of his surfing strengths, like how he manages to put his board in all the right places with healthy dose of speed and power.

Adriano’s path was undoubtedly a tough one. And it remains so in the court of public opinion. Meanwhile, as we learn in the new Surfer Magazine interview issue, Dane Reynolds road has been obstacle free, and he’s essentially flying blind out there.

After all, he prefers to travel with six packs over exercise balls. He doesn’t want to waste energy chasing a 5.5 to get through heats just to please sponsors. He finds his friends in Oxnard a lot more interesting than all the exotic people he ignores while traveling. And, oh yeah, Kelly Slater really hasn’t done all that much for surfing. (Apparently Dane doesn’t count the zeroes in his checks before depositing them.)

All this listlessness makes him a huge surfing hero.

Now he’s searching for even less stress. He wants to ride ugly boards in mushy point waves and hang out with his friends scribbling on T-shirts, posting on his blog and making webisodes.

And not surprisingly a handful of younger “highly touted” Californians think the same path will work just as well for them. Incidental stardom is apparently just a cool little blog away.

Of course they’d kinda like to skip that part that Dane had to endure…y’know, the part where he actually earned all his value, the part where he made the tour and validated his hype with brilliant victories on a big stage.

Wait – victories?

Well yes and no. As Slater so aptly noted during his Surfer Poll speech last year, Dane Reynold’s has never won anything. Not even the NSSA Nationals. But we needn’t weep for him.

Fact is Dane’s simply not cut from the same heat-winning cloth as most tour stars. Nevertheless the tour is filled with Daneophiles (DANE-oh-FILEs) for good reason: once he made the tour, he subsequently made more than a few dents with his freakish flying and carnivorous carves. Dane’s biggest victories haven’t been mathematical ones, they come in statement form – by how he wins heats, and sometimes by the way he loses them. Either way he’s made more than a few boundary pushing proclamations in his contest jersey, and that’s what’s made him the A-lister he is. He’s won hearts.

But whether Dane knows it or not, he won the majority of hearts up on the big stage, and his message resonates more from that platform than anywhere else. There’s a simple reason for that. Performing on demand in front of hundreds of thousands without the safety net of Final Cut Pro is simply more difficult than posting on a blog, drawing up T-shirts, and shooting videos.

Nothing cheap and easy has value, which is why all that other stuff is considered just surf porn. It’s great for a few seconds of fleeting pleasure. Given the choice, the majority of Dane’s fans would rather see him keep pushing.

Of course, after years of grueling travel and that hefty work schedule they have on the ASP he’s certainly earned the right to pursue what makes him truly happy, be it fashion and film or beer bongs and surf smut. If we’ve learned nothing else from the dearly departed Steve Jobs it’s that loving what you do is the only way to do great work. And we love Dane’s great work.

But history tells us that once surfers leave the tour behind a clock starts ticking on their allure, because flash fades a bit faster in this new media age. A few short years from now when Dane’s added 15 pounds to his boiler, his neckbeard is grown out, and he’s home watching a new generation of stars pick up where he left off, it’s possible he could feel more exploited than ever being a video floozy seeking Facebook followers…By then a few 5.5s might just pale in comparison.

GREAT EMAIL #1:Baldy n Bassy:
Been a listener for a while now, all through the podcasts. It’s a
great show but I have a some suggestions (in no particular order):
- Don’t plug Sacred Craft so much. We get it. It’s coming. We’ll seek out the info and details online.
- Don’t talk over the guests. There’s a tendency to interject personal
thoughts/opinions/experiences too much. Let the guests talk.
- No need for Top 5 stories when you do have guests. It just wastes time and leaves a lot less time for the interview(s).
- Bring to light the lesser known stories from the surf world. Be unique. Anyone can log onto the ASP site and get competition-related news.

Anyway, thanks for listening/reading. Obviously these are just my opinions and how you do your show is your prerogative. Keep up the great work. Respectfully,
Clarence

The talented & looney geniuses at the -ERmag BB message board came up with these PhotoChop gems.

Bobby Ain’t No Corporate Puppet from Surfing Life on Vimeo.

Dear Bobby,
By: Chris Mauro, GrindTV.com

Just wanted to say thanks for the entertainment today. Good stuff. I’ve always loved your colorful post-heat interviews. They make for some incredibly fun fodder during the webcasts, and did you see? For about 74 minutes today you were quite the trender on twitter. So awesome.

Still, I must admit, as one of your biggest admirers (who will always see you as a smiling, very grateful little grommet at Rincon) I can’t help but be a little saddened by your departure from the world tour ranks.

You see, as hard as I’m trying to feel your pain and fully grasp the depths of hell that those evil twisted corporate soul-sucking bastards at the ASP have been putting you through, it’s frankly a little difficult to sympathize with anyone who — at the end of the day — gets paid to surf for a living.

In an environment like this, when real unemployment in the USA is about 15%, and just having a job makes you among the fortunate in this world, selling us all on the idea that your “dream job” is actually a nightmare is pretty tough.

To much of the world that’s a winning lotto ticket you’re ripping up.

God knows the ASP is very easy target, but no matter how I try to twist things to get a glimpse of what exactly it is you’re seeing, I’m having problems. Maybe my glasses just aren’t dark enough, because through these lenses the worst day on tour is still better than the best day hanging dry or wall in Oxnard, or blogging in San Clemente (trust me).

I’m thrilled to hear you have a new sponsor to support you right now, especially at a crucial time like this, but what happens next year when you’re fading from view and they can’t collect from struggling retailers in this shitty economy?

Don’t get me wrong. I’d love to join the chorus of those pleading on your behalf right now, but first I’d have to grasp the actual point you were trying to make today…which for the life of me I can’t, because it’s got all kinds of holes.

Let’s examine the crux of your rant: “How the fuck is somebody who’s not even competing against our caliber of surfers ahead of 100 of us on the one world ratings. They’ve never been here. They’ve never fucking made the right to surf against us, but now we’re ranked upon [among] them?”

Actually they have. To your point, PRIME events were tailor made for expressly that reason. That’s where anyone in the Top 96 gets to step in the ring with the big boys of the Top 32 and make them justify their existence. From a fans perspective, that’s far superior to the old system where both tours operated in completely separate silos.

Fact is, you’ve been getting beat by those “somebodies” in the very limited amount of Prime events you’ve bothered to enter, like the Nike Lowers Pro, The US Open and last year’s Cold Water Classic. Guys who’ve defeated you would love nothing more than a crack at the title someday, which apparently you’re no longer interested in based on your recent decisions to pass on J-Bay and Tahiti.

And despite your rambling about halfway cutoff marks you’ve had an entire year to justify your Top 32 tour seed. World rankings, after all, are based on your best 8 results over the past 12 months in any ASP rated event, period. You’ve had a huge advantage over those outside the Top 32 with ten more opportunities to perform in tour events with huge points, and yet you want to cry foul?

Unfortunately your results haven’t been so good. Then you compound the problem by refusing to show up at J-Bay and Teahupoo? (And you’ve won Tahiti twice?) Are you implying that after losing, then skipping two world tour events you’re still owed a valuable seed just because you rip and what…you’re Bobby?

You certainly do rip. Of that there’s no question. You haven’t lost even a half-step from what I can tell. What you have lost, however, is any sense of how the world has changed around you in recent years. I hate to break this to you…but a lot of people rip these days…and the ASP owes you absolutely nothing. Time will tell how much you owe the ASP though. It’s never been a perfect system but it’s the still the best one pro surfing has.

In the meantime, like all your fans, I wish you the best in wherever you take your surfing next: films, reality shows, Rincon. Please keep those beautiful carves and that silky smooth style visible. And for what it’s worth, do whatever it takes to find that big grin again. Don’t ever fight the fun.

 

How often is it – in surfing or anything – you can truly say you’ve seen something you’ve never seen before and don’t expect to see again?

Early this morning – or late last night, depending on how you look at 2am – the reef begins to boom.

Almost imperceptible, ground-shaking impacts.

At the crack we get up, have coffee and walk down to check it.

Immediately you can see it’s BIG. Seawater has broken the berm protecting the lawns along the rim of the bay inside the pass; rocks and weed and bits of junk are scattered in unusual places.

TO READ MORE OF NICK CARROLL’S PIECE GO HERE:

http://tinyurl.com/3cr3bhq

surf news, surf industry, korduroy.tv InnerView with Shane Herring.

Somewhat interesting. More Sad.

Shane Herring. A character straight out of Milius’ “Big Wednesday” – ‘ranga beard and all. In ’91, the great Aussie hope… slugging hits from a brown paper bag, cancer sticks, and spitting out non-sequitors. There is a very special person in there with tons more potential to help young surfers, young people. Is that all he has? That cliche of brown bag and cigarettes. Really? That’s it?

Shane Herring – InnerViews from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.