Archive for August, 2011
How often is it – in surfing or anything – you can truly say you’ve seen something you’ve never seen before and don’t expect to see again?
Early this morning – or late last night, depending on how you look at 2am – the reef begins to boom.
Almost imperceptible, ground-shaking impacts.
At the crack we get up, have coffee and walk down to check it.
Immediately you can see it’s BIG. Seawater has broken the berm protecting the lawns along the rim of the bay inside the pass; rocks and weed and bits of junk are scattered in unusual places.
TO READ MORE OF NICK CARROLL’S PIECE GO HERE:
surf news, surf industry, korduroy.tv InnerView with Shane Herring.
Somewhat interesting. More Sad.
Shane Herring. A character straight out of Milius’ “Big Wednesday” – ‘ranga beard and all. In ’91, the great Aussie hope… slugging hits from a brown paper bag, cancer sticks, and spitting out non-sequitors. There is a very special person in there with tons more potential to help young surfers, young people. Is that all he has? That cliche of brown bag and cigarettes. Really? That’s it?