Archive for January, 2012
DTL — Surf talk radio with Jeff Baldwin and Scott Bass it is Jan 29, 2012
We are live every Sunday morning here in San Diego on XTRA SPORTS 1360AM and broadcast around the world via iTunes. — our show needs a sponsor so be advised.
in-studio today Dr Jess Ponting of SDSU Center for Surf Research ?
Splinters is the first feature-length documentary film about the evolution of indigenous surfing in the developing nation of Papua New Guinea. In the 1980s an intrepid Australian pilot left behind a surfboard in the seaside village of Vanimo. Twenty years on, surfing is not only a pillar of village life but also a means to prestige. With no access to economic or educational advancement, let alone running water and power, village life is hermetic. A spot on the Papua New Guinea national surfing team is the way to see the wider world; the only way.
Welcome Dr Jess Ponting
The Dr. filmed some of the documentary film SPLINTERS; which I watched, great doco, and we’ll chat with Dr Ponting about the film and about his SDSU Center for Surf Research
Adam Wright. solspot.com surf report –
Emails – Just a point to Scott Bass’s assertion that the Shoot Out and Pipe Pro get as much coverage as the Pipe Masters. Not even close. Not by a long shot! The Shoot Out got good coverage in the surf media because they got good surf. However, no webcast, virtually no mainstream media coverage. The Pipe Masters had over 13 Million web viewers with nearly 2 Million unique viewers on the final day! Not to mention the Time Warner coverage with over a quarter of the population of Hawaii watching it and estimate over one million watching on the mainland! So, to even compare the two is not in the same league. — Randy Rarick
Dr. Jess Ponting:
Center for Search Research, I think what you’re doing is badass and people need to know about it.
the film Splinters :
Please summarize the movie and the main themes that are explored.
1) Westernized Competition. Is it a good thing for this remote village.
Surfing is not a traditional sport. It is an activity, the difference being anything that is subjectively judged is not a true sport.
2) What does our need to compete against one another, and have a subset of surfers/judges tell us how good or bad our performance was on the waves say about us?
Surfing’s depth comes from riding waves which includes communing with nature, putting yourself directly into the food chain, and the challenges that arise organically from the act itself, wave judgment, etc.
3) Interestingly western competition acts as a liberating force for the women of the PNG village.
Lesley is one of the woman surfers. She views the competition as a way out, she states at one point: “I want the surf industry to rescue me from the village.”
A commonality between the west and the village: Responsibility toward the village and more singularly toward the family or clan was neglected for surfings sake?
Made me feel somewhat vindicated for lifelong obsession / neglect.
Themes: family, work, marriage, ego, west as a savior.
Grass is always greener, a romantic view that I had a young surfer is tropical island setting with out the concrete jungle, the urban setting, the ideal of perfect littel island with simple needs and good waves. Perfecto.
SD premiere of SPLINTERS
* Tickets are available on the film’s website http://www.splintersmovie.com , click on San Diego date
* Open Bar hosted by Peligroso Tequila
* Josh Hall, a local surfboard shaper is hosting a live board shaping around 4, before the show, then also raffling off a 5’5 Lis/Frye inspired Keel Fin Fish with Hand foiled wood fins via ticket admittance stub (read: you don’t need to buy another raffle ticket)
* Show starts at 6:30
* All ages
* Street parking
* At Bird’s Surf Shed on February 11th
SDSU Center for Surf Research – Phd Dr. Jess Ponting
What was your doctorate thesis about? Who / What academic department head did you present to?
Facilitating sustainability in surf tourism through research. Creating life changing study abroad opportunities. Forming partnerships with industry and non-profits for positive change.
10th annual surfing, arts, sciences & issues conference: Surfing’s New Aloha: The Growing Trend of Giving Back
WHEN: Friday February 10, 2012 7:00PM – 9:00PM & Saturday, February 11, 2012 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
WHERE: San Diego State University’s Parma Payne Goodall Alumni Center
San Diego State University, 5210 55th Street, San Diego, CA
RSVP: To register click here http://www.cvent.com/d/9cqk1r/4W.
Recently surf companies and professional surfers have added a new dimension to the world of riding waves. The spirit of giving as embodied by Duke Kahanamoku is growing through corporate philanthropy. Growing numbers of professional surfers are making significant efforts to give back to the sport that has been so good to them and the communities that support them.
In order to make “significant efforts towards taking personal responsibility for a better future for surfing.” Center for Surf Research must define what it deems as a better future for surfing? What is best for surfing? For instance, when you visit remote villages, maybe you do not leave behind surfboards?
99% of giving back is sincere, do you think we have reached a point where surf companies have to give back, it’s simply part of Marketing 101. Greenwashing type of thing?
Center for Surf Research: Stuff I’d like to see studied…
1) So Cal surf population: When do we reach “unsustainable”? What number of surfers is too many? Is there a point when there are just too many of us in the water?
2) Concept of a leash-less surf population? Is this a bad thing? I’m prepared to go leash-less for a year, to act as a participant / observer.
3) I have a theory about driving to go surfing. I believe you should never show up with other surfers. Just show up by yourself. What do you think about this?
Duke didn’t wear a leash.
Down The Line surf talk radio w/ Scott Bass n Jeff Baldwin Jan. 22, 2012
Jack O’Neill: It’s Always Summer on the Inside
* Drew Kampion who authored a biography of wetsuit pioneer and surf industry icon Jack O’Neill. Jack O’Neill: It’s Always Summer on the Inside. We’ll talk with Drew.
• Plus the top 5 stories.
Adam Wright Solspot.com surf report
On the heels of Windansea’s Ted Smith heart attack and in the name of common sense San Diego Project Heartbeat
is offering a Free opportunity for surfers and their friends and family to learn basic CPR skills.
> >> Where: Bird’s Surf SHED, 1091 West Morena, San Diego, CA 92110.
> >> When: Friday, January 27th, from 6pm to 8pm.
> >> Why: Because the more people who know the basics of CPR, the more lives may be saved!
> >> How: Please RSVP to Bird via facebook (https://www.facebook.com/BirdsSurfShed) or by phone (619) 276-2473.
858 570 1360 surftalksandiegoATgmailDOTcom twitter @sacredcraftexpo or @jeffbaldy
Drew Kampion is a former editor of several surf magazines and author of many books, including Stoked! A History of Surf Culture. He lives on an island in Washington.
GOOD MORNING DREW: JACK O’Neill- the biography, give us a quick overview of the book?
Jack the patriarch of the O’Neill Wetsuit empire;
The question remains, who really invented the surfing wetsuit: some might argue the Meistrell brothers, some might say Jack O’Neill, some might say neither; what does Jack O’Neill say?
* He is dyslexic, a patron of a school for dyslexic kids (like him),
* He’s been working actively to save the white shark from extinction.
* Drew, I ask you? How do we know the GWS is going extinct?
* Team O’Neill catamaran for a cruise on Monterey Bay. O’Neill’s Sea Odyssey program,
* What innovation puts more people on waves, the wetsuit or the leash?
* What did you learn about Jack O’Neill from your involvement with the book?
* His home at Pleasure Point, have you sat on the couch and watched the waves with the iconic O’Neill?
* What about his political viewpoints, any insight?
How do we purchase this book??
Top 5 stories:
1) Volcom Pipe Pro – begins tomorrow with big swell expected at Pipeline. Defending event champion John John Florence will head the field, joined by top international talent Josh Kerr (Australia), Bruce Irons (Hawaii, wildcard), Kolohe Andino (California), Tanner & Dane Gudauskas (California), Wiggolly Dantas (Brazil), Joan Duru (France), Balaram Stack (New York), and Hawaii chargers Ian Walsh, Dusty Payne, and Jamie O’Brien.
Not only will the Volcom Pipe Pro crown a 2012 champion, but it will also be a qualifier for December’s Pipe Masters (final event of the year-ending Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and ASP World Tour). Eight wildcards will be up for grabs for local Hawaii surfers.
My question to you Baldy: If we agree that the DaHui Backdoor Shootout and the Volcom Pipe Pro together receive as much or more media exposure, attention and acknowledgment through massive internet exposure via webcasts, YouTube, the multitude of twitter accounts, surf blogs, surf magazine websites, and nonstop imagery posted on the internet, do the local Pipeline experts really still need the Pipe Masters slots? Hasn’t, in fact, the need to acknowledge these experts through the Pipeline Masters become archaic and is now taken care of through the new media paradigm and these other events (not to mention the onslaught of local ‘Pipe Expert’ imagery from every good swell at Pipe)?
2) ASP International has initiated a new Anti-Doping Policy for the world’s best surfers which will be activated for 2012 ASP World Title season. Applies to ASP Top 34 and ASP Top 17 members competing on the ASP World Title Series and ASP Women’s World Title Series respectively. ASP surfers played a crucial role in the initiation of this policy and are in full support of its activation.
2.3 Recreational Substances Prohibited at All Times
• Cocaine Hydrochloride;
• Methamphetamines; and
3) Legendary Film Maker Jack McCoy Wins Best Documentary
and Receives Life Time Achievement Award at the X-Dance Film Festival – A Deeper Shade of Blue is McCoy’s 25th film on surfing which took almost 5 years to bring to the big screen. Jack McCoy, a multi talented Director, Producer and Cinematographer focuses on Hawaiian Surf Culture’s deepest roots, the evolution of the surfboard, and the Polynesian Creed of Aloha in this new film A Deeper Shade Of Blue.
The X-Dance Life Time Achievement Award in the past has been won by iconic surf film maker Bruce Brown (Endless Summer) and skiing film guru Warren Miller. So McCoy is a perfect recipient to carry on this honored achievement at a film festival that continues to herald the work of action sports film makers.
4) Occy wants a keyhole cop at Snapper
He said finding a way to stop surfers swarming the keyhole, the main access point for the Snapper surf break, was a potential solution. “Sometimes you head to Snapper and you see 30 guys all trying to get out through the rocks at the same time,” he said. “Maybe if you had someone there saying ‘hang on a second’, keeping it to five guys at a time and then another five guys a few minutes later, that could help.”
Occhilupo said the marshall would have to be able to monitor the number of surfers and have security or lifeguard skills. “Some guys would just go off and not listen but I think most surfers would have the sense to abide by something like this,” he said. Police start early-morning patrols in attempt to curb incidents of surf rage The two popular breaks of Duranbah and Snapper Rocks have been identified as places where an increased amount of surf rage is occurring. Last week, mounted police also patrolled between Rainbow Bay and Kirra. Local surfer and Burleigh Boardriders Club member, Terry Teece, says the biggest cause of arguments in the surf is people ‘dropping in’ on each other and not respecting the old-time local surfers and the “pecking order of a various place”.
5) Another shark attack on a surfer:
A 26-year-old man has been bitten by a shark off the WA coast, becoming the second person to be attacked in Australian waters in two days. The new victim, reported by to be a 26-year-old tour operator, was bitten today while swimming near Coral Bay, an idyllic vacation spot 1137km north of Perth.
Witnesses told police said the shark was a 3m tiger shark, a large species considered dangerous to humans. A spokeswoman for The Royal Flying Doctor said the patient was expected to be flown to Perth for treatment for a non-life-threatening bite to his arm.
News of the attack came as it emerged that a shark which attacked a 44-year-old surfer at a popular beach on Australia’s east coast. The surfer nearly bled to death after he was savaged by a shark and forced to paddle himself back to shore, screaming for help, as blood streamed out behind him. Father-of-one Glen ‘Lennie’ Folkard, 44, was last night fighting for his life after suffering massive blood loss from the attack.
He was surfing at Redhead Beach, near Newcastle, 100 miles north of Sydney, when the shark – believed to be a young great white or an equally aggressive bull shark – attacked him.
But Mr Folkard, a well known tattoo artist, managed to grab hold of his surfboard and paddle towards the shore, crying out ‘I’m in trouble, I’m in trouble’. Blood surrounded him as other surfers came to his rescue and carried him onto the shore. He was rushed to John Hunter Hospital in Newcastle in a critical condition.
The attack has led to calls from Green campaigners to remove shark nets, which they claim are ineffective and pose a danger to other marine life.
One witness, who identified himself only as Peter, said the attack scene was like something out of the movie Jaws.
Jan 15, 2012 Down The Line Surf Talk Radio San Diego and heard around the world via iTunes podcast
Bassy n Baldy with ya every Sunday -858.570.1360 call us if you want to talk surf or email us at surftalksandiego at gmail dot com twitter ATsacredcraftexpo or ATjeffbaldy
BoardArtBenefit with Matt Beard : The Board Art Benefit is a project designed to bring leading artists and shapers together to create original works of art utilizing surfboards for the purpose of raising support for Surf Aid International.
Jan 21. Sat night 6-9pm here in San Diego in Solana Beach at the Aaron Chang Gallery in the Cedros design district
Top 5 stories of the Week
#1 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout – congrats to REEF McIntosh for winning! Check the video below.
Top 5 stories of the Week
#1 Da Hui Backdoor Shootout – congrats to REEF McIntosh for winning .
There is huge amount of “Pipeline Only Experts” on the North Shore and this is one of their events to shine. My opinion is this, when I watch the Pipeline Masters I see the same incredible tubes being made and the same amount of wipeouts. There are guys on tour that don’t want any part of mean 10′ Pipe. But for the most part I think the gap between the local Pipeline experts, JOB, JOHN JOHN, Markus Hickman, Healey, Fuller, REEF, Bruce Irons etc. etc. and guys like Ace Buchan, Josh Kerr, Kieran Perrow, Kelly Slater, Joel Parkinson, Mick Fanning, is shrinking and in many cases is barely noticeable.
#2 San Diego Surf Film Festival – The SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL is pleased to announce a call for submissions to all independent surf filmmakers everywhere. SUBMISSION DUE MARCH 31ST. In addition, come celebrate the unique contributions San Diegan’s have made to the surfing community through design and invention. Come one, come all and enjoy the art of surf cinema. The inaugural SAN DIEGO SURF FILM FESTIVAL will be proudly presented at BIRD’S SURF SHED. MAY 11-13, 2012
#3 Ted Smith paddle out at Windansea today at noon – sadly Ted Smith an iconic Wndansea local had a heart attack ; he died surfing at a young age. If you were a part of the Wndansea scene you knew Ted Smith.
#4 St. Pete Beach photographer accused of molesting teen surfer
The local photographer took pictures of young male surfers, skimboarders and skateboarders, posted them on popular surfing websites, and promised the exposure would help the boys attract the sponsors. He molested one boy, admitted to the charge via a hidden microphone, and was arrested. Gil Benitz, alias was also Guillermo Trejos. Apparently he had all the high priced equipment and seemed believable.
Attention groms: Don’t befriend any 40-year-old loner photographers who use the word sponsor. Creepy.
#5 Irishman Glenn Hall Wins the Inaugural Hainan Classic at Riyue Bay
Despite smaller conditions on the final day of the competition at the Hainan Classic, the Final was an action-packed, wave-for-wave affair. Glenn ‘Micro’ Hall (IRL) managed to take control early with a long, excellent-scoring wave mid-way through the heat and hold off Royden Bryson (ZAF) in order to be crowned the first-ever champion of the Hainan Classic, an ASP 4-Star Men’s World Tour event.
There are human rights violations in China. It is not a place where you can speak negatively about the communist regime. They do not allow free speech, they do not allow free thought on the internet. In the 80s the ASP boycotted South Africa for backward thinking.
Baldy, are we as surfers, supposedly a free thinking bunch, just going to bury our heads in the sand?
Or is this about the money, new markets, if it means selling board shorts, we look the other way OR is this about keep you friends close and your enemies even closer?
Perhaps we have more power if we infiltrate and impose thru hegemony our western ways.
#6 Shark Bites Board at Nelscott Reef: Surfer Steve Harnack reported; “I had traveled beyond the reef about 200 yards by duck-diving through several waves about 20 feet high. I noticed my board dragging as I moved through the water. I had a jet-ski tow me back to the beach where I noticed a section on the bottom of my board had been struck by a shark. A portion of the fiber-glass had been removed and tooth impressions were also present.”
Predictions for 2012 :
The ASP drug policy is implemented and moves forward quietly and without issue until someone tests positive for a Performance Enhancing Drug.
Specialty events like the Billabong MUNDAKA Challenge featuring Machado, Occy, Luke Egan, take away even more credibility from the ASP, which is left without any real power. This helps open up the door for the likes of NIKE to create their own specialty events.
USA surfers John Florence & Kolohe Andino have remarkable Australian legs; John Florence will separate himself from Kolohe when big Cloudbreak and Teahupoo present themselves;
A rift will form between the shy Gabe Medina and other surfers on tour; as his shyness comes off as an aloofness, a kid with an attitude. Nobody likes that.
American Josh Kerr will win the world title in 2012.
Kolohe Andino will knock off Kelly Slater from the #1 position at the Surfer Poll awards