Kelly Slater’s car gets waxed; Apeish Face is the name of a new alt band

DOWN THE LINE MARCH 18, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM
a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

Kelly_Slater-waxed

SHOW NOTES: THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS Miguel’s name is pronounced “POO POO”, Asymmetrical surfboards, Carl Ekstrom, Nathan Myers, Apeish Face, Tom Blake, Kelly Slater’s car gets waxed: “fuckwit”, Snapper is stupid, Bangladesh girl surfer, Dolphin mows down surfer, Best Song Ever, Hobie Alter, Surfing Heritage & Culture Center, plus much more.

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BEST SONG EVER

Tom Blake’s ribbed hollow paddleboard concept
Down the Line surf talk

Carl Ekstrom Assymetrical
Down The Line surf talk

Otis Carey – You be the judge : apeish face, yes or no?
Down the line surf talk

Bangladesh surfer girl – a worthy doco!

Quik Pro Roxy Pro Wrapup, Endless Summer

DOWN THE LINE MARCH 12, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM
a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

down the line

SHOW NOTES: THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS Endless Summer 50 Years Celebration with Paul Strauch in-studio, Phil Edwards, Rabbit Kekai, big Makaha, Adriano de Sourgrapes runs over Jeremy Flores; Kelly Slater still heads and shoulders above the rest, Jordy Smith feeling pressure?, Stephanie Gilmore surfs well, ASP needs to acknowledge and nurture rivalries i.e Julian v Mitch Crew, Adrian v Jeremy, these are crucial stories, CJ Hobgood solid but can he give a better interview please, plus much more.

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Down The Line Surf Talk Radio
Do you know on which beach the classic Endless Summer poster image was taken?

One Summer, Forever
By Lili Anolik

The Endless Summer poster is 50 years old, and it hasn’t aged a minute. Kitchen-table project turned pop-culture phenomenon, the Day-Glo movie promo created by John Van Hamersveld for his friend Bruce Brown’s 1964 documentary is still selling the dream—on T-shirts, TV shows, beer bottles, and dorm walls. Lili Anolik looks back at the moment an iconic image was born, the social upheaval it presaged, and the surfer-dude-slash-designer whose life it changed.

Lost at sea; Carissa Moore better than Jordy ? ; The women are hot.

DOWN THE LINE MARCH 4, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM
a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

Down The LIne surf talk jordy smith
“Oh Jordy….”

SHOW NOTES: THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS Lost at sea with Johnny Kessel; Big Saturday in California; Carissa Moore could probably beat Jordy Smith, Carissa is the top athletica; Is the ASP already crowning Steph Gilmore?; The women are red hot in oh so many ways; Tiago Peres or Perez or …; ASP an easy target ; Sean Doooooooherty is the best surf journo; Give us your memeory cards; Jaws boat swamp and Dege gets raked; ASP in Tahiti, really?, You might want to tell the Tahitians and not just ONE of them, but the federation, Louis Vuitton surfboards; plus much more.

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JOHNNY KESSEL – EPIC DOWNWIND STORY
JOHNNY KESSEL DOWN THE LINE

A LINK TO JOHNNY’S STORY
http://paddleathlete.com/2014/lost-paddleboard-2-miles-offshore/

STEPHANIE GILMORE IS RED HOT
stephanie gilmore nude down the line surf talk ESPN

WATCH THIS BOAT GET SWAMPED AT JAWS

WATCH DEGE O’CONNELL TAKE A MEAN ONE AT JAWS

WATCH GARRETT MCNAMARA GET A BOARD DESIGNED BY MERCEDES-BENZ

WATCH CARISSA MOORE DOMINATE THE ROXY PRO

JORDY SMITH LOSES TO TIAGO PERES (fast forward to 28:09 for the punch)

Louis Vuitton Down the line surf talk radio

The ASP Comes Out Swinging: Womens Surfing Upgrade, Pulls Power Rankings; Borte Quits Surfing

DOWN THE LINE FEBRUARY 18, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM
a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

SHOW NOTES: THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS Jason Borte; How Surfing Ruined My Life ; Sochi Surfing and the Olympics; ASP Fantasy Surfer game vs. FantasySurfer.com; Lewis Samuels’ spins more vitriol via ASP Power Rankings – gets yanked; Bethany Hamilton at Prayer Breakfast; Paul Speaker loves Women’s Surfing and its marketing potential; Kelly Slater and the Bat Tail goes batty; Todd Chesser is our DUKE K.; Best Song ever is the Allman Brothers “Where it All Began” ;

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Go Ahead and Click play and listen while you check the rest of the show notes.

Jason Borte’s Blog – Good stuff – I recommend.

Kelly Slater in Golf Digest

The Bat Tail – it’s back

FYI these come from @draynolds instagram and the graphics are his too. ASP Power Rankings (words) by Lewis Samuels – Recently yanked off of the ASP website – click image for larger version.
ASP Power Rankings by Lewis Samuels
ASP Power Rankings by Lewis Samuels
ASP Power Rankings by Lewis Samuels
ASP Power Rankings by Lewis Samuels
ASP Power Rankings by Lewis Samuels

An interview (post Power Rankings yank) with Lewis Samuels

Surfing IN the Olympics – will it look like this?

This is a great forecast by Mark Sponsler and StormSurf.com – You should subscribe to his channel on YoutTube – I do.

LUNDA BAY LUNACY

DOWN THE LINE FEBRUARY 04, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM
a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS: Dave and Scott discuss, among other things, Lunada Bay, Chris Taloa, Vladimir Putin, Shark Culling in WA and on the East Coast of Oz, Dog culling at the Olympics, Snowboarding in Utah, getting fat, boards with volume, single fins, Volcom Pipe Pro, JJF, Richard Sherman, Kelly Slater, Hurley wetsuits, O’Neill wetsuits, Neil Young, Pete Seeger, Teddy Roosevelt, Forest Fires, The Boardroom, SHACC, Facebook, and many many other things – listen in!

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LUNADA BAY AKA ALOHA POINT

https://www.facebook.com/AlohaPointSurfClub


Is this man hunting stray dogs?

SHARK CULL in WA
There have been seven fatal attacks in WA since 2010, and a program is underway to selectively eliminate them. While there’s been widespread opposition to the move, surfers on the WA south west coast support the move.

I think both sides are short-sighted: I think that if the economy wasn’t threatened; the politicians wouldn’t give a shit about a few surfers being killed. AND on the other side… the scientists skew the data, they say “oh well the number of sharks has declined in the last 50 years; well that may be, but the number of Great White Sharks, Bronze Whalers, and Tiger Sharks – the species that threatens surfers, swimmers, and beach goers — has not declined.” THE WA government isn’t blindly killing any and all sharks. They are selectively eliminating large Great Whites, and Tigers that are biting on baited hooks a mile or so off-shore.

Now what about this idea: Don’t kill the hooked sharks; move them 100 miles out to sea.

VOLCOM PIPE PRO
JJF out

Kook: Russian authorities and Vladimir Putin for exterminating all the stray dogs in Soochi Olympics

Duke: Richard Sherman whose post super bowl interviews ere classy, sincere, and humble with a touch of humility. I’m a new found fan.

MUST SEE TV (IT’S A BOOK – DEAL WITH IT.)

BEST SONG EVER

BIG WAVE SEASON: XXL-ENT BLUSTER

DOWN THE LINE JANUARY 22, 2014 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.
brought to you by:
THE BOARDROOM

a consumer trade show presenting the core of surf
MAY 17 & 18, 2014 – DEL MAR, CA.

THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS: BIG WAVE SEASON HITS FULL FORCE. MAVS EVENT ON FOR FRIDAY JAN24. EDDIE TOO MUCH BLUSTER. NELSCOTT REEF (yes they held this event it still exists and no one knows). BILL SHARP IS VERY BUSY. MUST SEE TV.

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XXL_BILLABONG

SHOW NOTES UNEDITED:
Big Wave Season
Quiksilver Eddie no go this week
Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikua was given a yellow light early this week and all eyes were on massive swell ; but unfortunately the storm that created those waves was very close to Hawaii and the resulting onshore winds made it difficult to call the Eddie event ON.

Eddie a No Go, but
The Mavs event is on Standby YELLOW alert as large swell to hit Friday 15-18’ + w/ very good conditions;
Surfline calling it 25-30’ on the faces as select deep water spots i.e code for Mavs.
I’ve been out there; on a boat during the event; The year 2002 or 2003;
Slater was in it and Flea won the event. But many thought Slater should’ve won it.
It is something to behold. If you ever get the chance to watch the event from the boat do it. Packs a big lunch and plenty of cold weather garb.
To air the event live on national television for the first time ever. Universal Sports will broadcast the final heats of the contest LIVE to a nationwide audience.
Big swell here this week
lots of great waves in San Diego this week; long westerly swell lines ; most of the points, jettys, reefs pretty good. Deep water spots really good. But, alas, crowded as … too much long period energy gives the newbys plenty of time to paddle out.
Taken out by a SUP; almost broke my leg; I got two or three memorable little shacks; plenty of pulsing surf action;
JAWS: Jaws saw at least two maybe three days of paddle in action this week; You need to watch Billy Kemper’s epic tube ride. Truly incredible. A few years ago Paddle in days didn’t exist; Recently we’ve seen quite a few.
Do you think REDBULL is bummed they cancelled their event at JAWS.

MUST SEE TV:

Jaws paddle in highlight with three tubes from that day.

Jeremy Rasmussen wins Nelscott Reef Uninvitational Open
Surfersvillage Global Surf News, 20 January, 2014 – Surfer Jeremy Rasmussen of Lincoln City, Ore., took first in the Lay Down Division and Ian Wallace won the Stand-up Paddleboard Division at the Nelscott Reef Uninvitational Open on Sunday at the remote Oregon break of Nelscott Reef.
Twelve surfers plus four teams were out on the water for four hours and were treated with 20 to 25-foot waves, according to contest organizer John Forse. “They all worked it out,” Forse said.
Each surfer had a minimum of one and a half hours in the water, Forse said.
Local surfers who competed include Ed Guzman, Colin Brown and Randy Reyes. Each paid a $300 entry fee. Paul Wetterau took second in the Lay Down Division and Mike Kotowski of Humboldt was third.
Santa Cruz’s Guzman took second in the SUP Division and Wade Lawson of Los Angeles placed third. The Uninvitational offered a $5,000 payout. That included a $1,000 prize for the ride of the day, which was shared by Rasmussen and Kotowski, and $500 prizes in a variety of categories.

DAVID’S trip to Panama

SURF Expo / East Coast surfing Hall of Fame inductions
Surf expo sponsored an evening for the ECSHoFame
Every two years they have this event; this year inductees were: Greg Mungall, Shea Lopez, Mike Martin 7 years as the ASP head judge; Mike NEMO Nemnich; Dean Randazzo; Donny Mulhearn; Christel Roever; Les Shaw; David DCB Balserak;
Great evening; I learned a lot ; I’m really naïve to the East coast scene; it’s been great getting to know those surfers; Such nice people; even the grumpy ones are nice.
http://www.surfexpo.com/Events/EastCoastSurfingHallofFame.aspx

Lunada Bay Takeover

WHAT? WHO? HOW? WHY?
I can appreciate a local community of surfers setting up a standard whereby respect is earned after you’ve spent some time in the water and is a two way street. Unfortunately respect is a one-way street at Lunada Bay.
I learned to surf in a region where we had cliffs and you had to go and down and we were protective of our lame little spots in Del Mar, and we were basically immature punks. But we grew out of it.
In my heart of hearts I know that Duke Kahanamoku would be disappointed in the actions of the surfers that live in that neighborhood and partake of childish/ self-centered attitudes. That is my litmus test : what would DUKE say? I don’t think he would condone 90% of the behavior.
Caveat here: I’m a hypocrite. I can be a self-centered jerk too; I’m not proud of it, but sometimes my ego gets in the way of good intentions.

Steamroller adventure:

Bruce Jones Passing
One of Southern California’s most experienced and beloved surfboard shapers, Bruce Jones, passed away on January 14. He was 69 years old.

Kirra Saved from Cruise Ship Development

ASP Changes for 2014

BEST SONG EVER

“Sweet Virginia” is the sixth track on the Rolling Stones’ 1972 double album Exile On Main St.. It was also released as the b-side of the “Rocks Off” single in Japan.
Recorded between 1971 and ’72, “Sweet Virginia” is a slow country inspired song, written by Mick Jagger and Keith Richards. The song features a harmonica solo by Jagger, a saxophone solo by Bobby Keys and a female chorus. Charlie Watts plays a country shuffle rhythm.[1]
The song was performed by the Stones during their 1972 American tour, their 1994 Voodoo Lounge Tour tour and their 2005 A Bigger Bang Tour. “Sweet Virginia” has also been covered by the band Phish[2] and Old Crow Medicine Show in concerts.
The song was used in the 1995 film Casino starring Robert De Niro.

KELLY SLATER DENIED CHANCE TO SWING THE BAT FOR WORLD TITLE HOME RUN

DOWN THE LINE DECEMBER 16, 2013 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.

THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS: THE GREATEST DAY IN COMPETITIVE SURFING HISTORY (at least for those under 30).

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as_surf_slater_pipe_cestari_2048

yadin-and-mick-635x354
The waves under scrutiny: Yadin Nichol’s (L) under the lip drop and run approach, or Mick Fanning’s (R) bottom turn to barrel hunt approach.


I think David Lockwood broke it down best… here’s what he had to say:

I have not even read anything thats being said on this site about what happened today, I can imagine. I just wanted to say this. I’ve had a little bit for this to sink in and all I can come up with is that it is just really really sad. Mick surfed one of the worst heats I have ever seen against CJ and somehow was gifted the win on a last minute wave that was deemed to be worth more than both CJ’s waves combined. Next mick got dominated in my eyes by Yadin and still somehow won. My question is this. When it is not clear cut, when he didn’t go out and get it. In this situation. With this much on the line. why the FUCK would you just give him the title?? Why not at least give Kelly a chance. I really cannot for the life of me understand. I feel like we were all robbed of what could have been one of the greatest moments in our sport. If Mick went out and threw down fine. GOOD. But he didn’t. And to not at least let Kelly have a shot at what could have been his ride into the sunset moment just makes me really bummed out about the state of the sport. disgusting.

Did Mick Fanning Deserve the Score that Decided the World Title?
Nathan Paul Gibbs In fact I speculate that if slayer had won, he would have taken a leave, if not retired entirely. The ASP needs slater on the tour with the new tv deal. Steal his board? I guess I should read the article.
Yesterday at 6:22am via mobile · Like
Jesse Sinclair As a lifelong surfer supporter of the ASP it wasn’t even close. When the best wave of the heat by Yadin gets a 9.3 and Mick gets the 2nd best wave for 9.7 in the most important heat of year it is very disappointing. Missed the heat against CJ but, hear…See More
Yesterday at 6:46am via mobile · Like · 7
Jean-Paul de Kervor I think the underscore was on yadins wave 2.
Yesterday at 6:53am via mobile · Like · 4
Andrew OBrien Tragic. Worst judging ever. Didn’t even give slater a chance to surf…micks 9.5 and 9.7 were lows 9 at best
Yesterday at 6:59am · Like · 4
Dennis Kane The real question is what score did yadins 2nd wave deserve. That heat was painful to watch. If you wait till the last minute and claim it super big you get the score. Terrible scoring all the way around in that heat. Yadin did some of the best barrel riding of the contest.
Yesterday at 7:18am via mobile · Like · 5
Adam Thomas No way. Yadins wave was more critical. Slater should’ve taken the title.
Yesterday at 8:03am via mobile · Like · 1
Dan Highland Wait’ll next year…
Yesterday at 8:14am via mobile · Like
Drew Littlemore No. The judging aspect of pro surfing is why surfing has not become a huge sport. Who knows where it would be if not for the beach scenes and all the young good looking people in bikinis and boardshorts on the tele/web casts.
Yesterday at 8:17am · Like · 1
Billy Hagerman No. Kelly is King.
Yesterday at 8:20am via mobile · Like
Mark Freeman I think Kelly should have won the whole thing, but am glad he’s “pissed off” enough to do the tour next year…
Yesterday at 8:22am · Unlike · 4
Bryan Ingraham Lets talk about Jon Jon getting a 7.4. too. Hmmmm??
Yesterday at 8:26am · Like · 4
Dan Highland It is what it is…
Yesterday at 8:44am via mobile · Like
Michael Payne NO .From your local neighborhood contest to the ASP WORLD TITLE hunt .The Judging does not improve in this sport.Until we can have a definite unquestionable finish line to cross the sport can not be legit.I think.I think it is and always will be a industry driven sport. Because of this you have your local pro establishment telling kids “the only way to make it is thru me I am the way not how well you surf”
Yesterday at 8:59am · Like · 1
Craig Heath Mick deserved it . I saw similar scenarios go against Mick through the year (which would have given him more points ) this one went in his favour
Yesterday at 10:07am via mobile · Like
Jeffrey Werve simple NO
Yesterday at 10:11am · Like
Craig Heath Yes .
Yesterday at 10:14am via mobile · Like
Reid Inouye What do you think Scott? You been to enough Pipe events? I actually thought this out in my head and the whole scenario on the tower and the “sideline/back seat driver sit on my ass in front of a computer” side just to see it from both sides. How many p…See More
Yesterday at 11:01am · Like · 2
Haumoana Pakarati i was there,,,,mick is a true champion,,but honestly 9.7??? i think it was pretty tough for the judges, and they really took a looooong time to come up with the score, thinking should we give it to him?? or not??? or what?? i think his wave was a littl…See More
22 hours ago · Edited · Like · 2
Chhris Dougherty Absolutely not, no way possible. There were far better waves that scored in the low 9s!!!!
22 hours ago via mobile · Like · 1
Jeffrey Werve
I think it was jaded to Mick but that’s ok because it won’t happen again for him as for Kelly it put a fire under his ass and he will get his 12th title sooner than later .
With a new asp I hope we see more honest scores and a more simple approach to scoring ,I did say I hope it’s still a little suspect with Brazils shitty beach break and not having Jeffrey’s as an event on the CT .
22 hours ago via mobile · Like
Reid Inouye Only critique I give the ASP judging is they have to punch in a decision in 2 minutes of the wave ridden. Use to be a minute max, then 2,3. Now its like they cannot think fast enough. Maybe make them take a psych test to see how fast their brain can make a decision. A good honest decision.
21 hours ago · Like · 1
Drew Campbell I have to paraphrase Martin Potter, “To beat the best in the world, you’re gonna have to completely dominate him, Macko!!” And thats pretty much the truth! What if that had been Kelly in that position (I think he would have surfed that wave a tad bit b…See More
21 hours ago via mobile · Edited · Like
Todd Messick Yes
18 hours ago via mobile · Like
Scott Bass Too close to call… I gave it a 9.3… I think we all wanted to give Slater a chance to surf his way to the world title. That chance was never allowed because of a really close close call. Really bummed for Yadin.
17 hours ago · Like · 3
Reid Inouye That’s a good honest score. I think Pipe should have double the prize money and double points. Make these guys earn it like the old WQS days.
17 hours ago · Edited · Unlike · 1
Mike Macia Scott – I thought a 9.2 or 9.3 tops…what a great day of surfing!!!! Ke11y was going to win the contest no matter what. He was possessed.
17 hours ago · Like
Flinn F Simmons No. 9.4 tops. Jon Jon got a 7.4 on a sik drainer. It was fucked. Micks wave was a soft roll in. Kelly in the final was air dropping. Kelly ruled it all.
17 hours ago via mobile · Like
Mike Macia The fact that Mick got that wave in the dying minutes tweaked everyones scoring scale……If he got that wave in the middle of the heat he would of never received that high of a score.
17 hours ago · Unlike · 1
Flinn F Simmons Yep
17 hours ago via mobile · Like
Andrew OBrien You know the Chinese batmitten team threw matches on purpose to face lesser opponents in the Olympics this year and got their medal taken away…micks blatant snaking of JJ to avoid him is also a blemish for this title. Also it’s not fair for us as fa…See More
16 hours ago · Unlike · 3
Flinn F Simmons Very well said. Rubbish.
16 hours ago via mobile · Like
Aaron Buczek slater is the most dominant athlete of any sport of all time, he deserved another title as well. kelly should have 12 titles and mick should be at 2 still… an epic contest the best of all time I think
16 hours ago · Like
Kristjan Higdon Slater absolutely dominated one of the greatest days of competitive surfing history…he dominated three of the best events of the year…he was not motivated at lesser breaks – Rio and Portugal…so did he take control of his destiny – no, he left it …See More
15 hours ago · Like
Jesse Sinclair Slater should retire and let the tour find a way to survive without him. After all he had done they screw him over by over scoring Mick. Great way to thank the guy that put the sport on his shoulders and carried it. Mick snaking John John was another j…See More
15 hours ago via mobile · Like · 1
Kristjan Higdon He should start his own tour and get Quiksilver/Disney/ESPN backing…
14 hours ago · Like
Rich Reeves No.
13 hours ago via mobile · Like
Robert Snelling The way to fix this is The judges should have no idea what score the surfers need. Keep judges in sound proof booth with headphones. They score the rides & that’s it.
9.2 roll in – to a nice barrel – my grandma coulda caught that wave.
12 hours ago via mobile · Unlike · 3
Scott Bass Great idea Robert Snelling . I’m gonna go ahead and steal this idea as my own;
5 hours ago · Like · 1
Jesse Sinclair That is such a good idea. Taking their hearing away would level the bias I know exists. At the end of the day everyone knows Kelly is the man. The only person to really question that was Andy Irons because he knew he could beat him.
5 hours ago via mobile · Like
Jim Wood not even…
about an hour ago · Like

SURFER POLL, DANE REYNOLDS, NORTH SHORE, BILLABONG PIPELINE MASTERS, KELLY VS MICK ET AL

PAT G. PIPELINE PHOTO: ZAK NOYLE

PAT G. PIPELINE PHOTO: ZAK NOYLE

DOWN THE LINE DECEMBER 12, 2013 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.

THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS: WELCOME TO PARADISE, NOW GO TO HELL as well as North Shore politics, Eddie Aikau, potential EDDIE Swell on Friday,

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1 – Welcome to Paradise Now Go to Hell (my interview with Chas)

eddieswell_dec20

2 – Surfer Poll Awards : I watched part of it; not too entertaining; not too informed; not too insightful.
Look it’s difficult to make surfers or anyone else other than entertainers look good at these awards shows. ESPY’s are unwatchable. Young, unprepared 20–somethings given a public speaking gig — is hard to watch. No matter who you are. Speaking in public is an art. I don’t do it good. You don’t do it good. Why should surfers do it good?
Surfer Poll is probably really important and fun to watch if your 17-years old; I’d rather play the guitar or read a book or talk to my kids. There are a lot of things I’d rather do. In this day and age, we can hear about the good, the bad and the ugly the the next day, and either watch some of it or not;
The Good: Dane Reynolds speech; good in that it was honest.
The Bad: Bruce Irons; haven’t they learned not to give Bruce a public speaking engagement.
The Ugly: I read on TheInertia.com … is someone pissed about some portion of the EDDIE Aikau film, not sure; all hearsay at this point.
But SURFER Poll for the SURFER magazine and surf media it’s important and good for them; No harm, no foul.

3 – Pipeline Fantasy Team (Bring your stats) – 4 remain for my team.
Round 5 I have Nat Vs Julian;
QF I have JohnJohn heat 2 ; Kelly Slater in heat 3
The Forecast– SATURDAY 14th: Solid NW swell lining up to peak in the early morning, holding strong all day.
SWELL/SURF: Solid NW swell offers double to triple overhead+ sets at Pipe (10-15′+ faces). Occasional 2nd reef roll-ins and possibly the occasional rogue wash throughs. Storm/swell still pending full development over the next 24hrs or so. Primarily Pipe, mostly closed out at Backdoor.
WIND/WEATHER: Calm to light offshore SE wind through the AM, possible light sea-breeze developing in the afternoon. Mostly cloudy skies.
CJ vs Mick in Heat 1 of round 5 with big, Mack Daddy West swell Pipe and a fellow Floridian with notable prowess in big lefts; It couldn’t set up any better FOR KELLY SLATER.
YADIN NICOL is a long shot and it got even longer with this big west and 80 percent lefts; HE had a shot with the Backdoor, but not with the lefts.

4 – EDDIE AIKAU SWELL Recent models show next Friday 12/20 it will be 30 feet on the North Shore; will Quiksilver hold the Eddie?

BONNER BRIDGE OBX SURFERS GET IT TO THEMSELVES
The Bonner Bridge connects the parts of the Outer Banks of North Carolina to the mainland USA
the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge, a 2.7-mile (4.3 km) bridge built in 1963.[2]
Prior to the building of the bridge, Hatteras Island was only accessible by air or ferry. Ferries could carry a maximum of 2,000 people per day.[3]

The bridge was closed unexpectedly Dec. 3 because sand was washing away from the bridge supports. A dredge dug 30,000 cubic yards of sand over the weekend from the Oregon Inlet channel and put it around pilings.
An emergency ferry route was set up between Rodanthe and Stumpy Point, a 17-mile trip that takes more than two hours.
The state last week gave Carolina Bridge Company of Orangeburg, S.C. a $1.6 million contract to place layers of interlocking jacks and sand bags on both sides of part of the bridge. The contract requires the work to be done in 90 days.
OBX surfers have the area more or less to themselves, with a ferry ride as the only means of getting over there.

5- Culling sharks has begun in West Oz?

6 – Must See Moment of the Week

7 – Best Song Ever – BITCH Rolling Stones

CHAS SMITH STATIC-RIDDEN CELL PHONE INTERVIEW – WELCOME TO PARADISE, NOW GO TO HELL

Chas-Smith

BOOKCOVER

DOWN THE LINE DECEMBER 9, 2013 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.

THIS WEEK WE TALK TO: CHAS SMITH – AUTHOR – WELCOME TO PARADISE, NOW GO TO HELL & DISCUSS ARABIC, THE NORTH SHORE, EDDIE, ANDY, BRUCE, KAI, STAB, LEBANON, JAMIE O., SURF MAGAZINES, OUTSIDE, BILLABONG, NOT MUCH MORE

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TRIPLE CROWN TALK – CULLING SHARKS – JJ CALE – NAT YOUNG – CHAS SMITH – WAITRESSES AT CHRISTMAS & MORE

DOWN THE LINE DECEMBER 3, 2013 surfing, surf news, surfer information, surfing industry tripe et al.

THIS WEEK WE DISCUSS: TRIPLE CROWN – HIDEOUS SHIRTS – DUMBING DOWN WEBCAST – CULLING SHARKS – JJ CALE – NAT YOUNG – CHAS SMITH – WAITRESSES AT CHRISTMAS – MATT WARSHAW – EOS – ZEKE LAU – KELLY SLATER – DANE GUDAUSKAS – GEIKO INSURANCE CAVEMAN – ASP TOUR 2014 – US OPEN – JAWS – PIPELINE – RED BULL – MATT BIOLOS – SPELLING – & MUCH MORE

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BOOKCOVER
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TURKEY DAY SWELL IN SO CAL
Opening day –
• solid on Thursday afternoon with long lines
• really good at the local beachbreaks on Friday afternoon with the low tide and the offshore wind all day – super mental seshion
• lots of west and some southwest mixed in it made for unusually peaky conditions for that large of a swell
• looks like we are in for another period of very small waves

BEN AIPA CELEBRATES 50 YEARS OF SHAPING
Aipa has inspired, shaped for or coached the likes of Larry Bertlemann, Michael Ho, Mark Richards, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Dane Kealoha, Tony Moniz, Sunny Garcia, Brad Gerlach, Andy and Bruce Irons, John Shimooka , Taylor Knox, Bethany Hamilton, and most recently, Alex and Koa Smith.

GREAT WHITE SHARKS
Two deaths within a few days in Australia and the calls for Cullng the GWS are echoing…
It means to reduce the population of something via selective slaughter.

Currently under consideration is a change to laws in West Australia that will allow sharks to be killed near popular beaches.
Environment Minister Greg Hunt told media outlets: “I am keen and we are keen to work with any state governments in whatever way will help explain why there’s been an increase in the number of attacks and secondly to understand what if anything can be done to reduce the risks to humans.,” Environment Minister Greg Hunt.

“It’s a fairly safe assumption that sharks could be attacking humans due to dwindling fish stocks; a result of overfishing.

Culling wildlife for that reason alone (inadequate food supply) is common enough, even without the attendant risk to humans; it’s called animal population control.

In that light, we are simply “restoring balance” to an ecosystem we have altered.”

assume:
1)humans are an animal
2) humans can kill any other animal.
3)humans can access any part of the planet.
4)if there is an animal in a part of the planet that humans are choosing to access, and it will eat humans, there is a conflict.
ways to handle the conflict: leave the area, kill the animal, accept being a food source.
will humans leave the ocean? no.
will humans kill sharks? yes.
will humans accept being a food source? open question.
where does a “natural” course of action separate itself from an “unnatural” one?

From the surfermag.com forum:
“If your personal dogma won’t allow you to see yourself as an animal and your actions as those of nature, that is the fault of your own incomplete reasoning. it says nothing to those of us who recognize that humans will continue to frequent the ocean in greater numbers with every passing day, and that humans will not accept being eaten as “just the risk you take”. you don’t have to like it, but you will have to watch it happen. if the deaths continue, a solution will be found. if the only solution that can be found is to kill the sharks or get out of the water, the sharks will be killed.”

2014 ASP Men’s World Championship Tour (WCT) Schedule:

    Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast – March 1 – 12, 2014
    Margaret River Pro – April 2 – 13, 2014
    Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach – April 16 – 27, 2014
    Billabong Rio Pro – May 7 – 18, 2014
    Fiji Pro – June 1 – 13, 2014
    Bali Pro – June 17 – 28, 2014
    Billabong Pro Teahupoo – August 15 – 26, 2014
    Hurley Pro at Trestles – September 9 – 20, 2014
    Quiksilver Pro France – September 25 – October 6, 2014
    Moche Rip Curl Pro Portugal – October 8 – 19, 2014
    Billabong Pipe Masters – December 8 – 20, 2014

The ASP WCT needs an event in July at Puerto Escondido or in Canada. Somewhere in North America or hell, in Central America – the US Open is not a surfing event, it is a youth lifestyle ‘happening.’ Which is really what the surf garment industry is: ia youth lifestyle industry. It is not about surfing, at least not solely about surfing. Pro surfers deserve their own July event that isn’t watered down by some publicly traded, data driven, youth demographic anxious corporation. Surfing has grown up and the US Open needs to grow up. They will cater to whatever the 15- 25 year old demo tells them to cater too. The youth lifestyle industry is reactionary. They are not leaders. They follow the data, they don’t set trends. Those days are long gone. TOO MANY MBA’S IN THE ROOM.

The ASP Women’s WCT will see the addition of Fiji, Trestles, and Hossegor to their schedule – stoked, I think. Errr, don’t really care one way or the other, but if it makes them happy, so be it.

The Auburn vs Alabama game… c’mon

DAMIEN HOBGOOD
Please, Baby Allah.. allow for him to re-qualify for the ‘CT.


VANS WORLD CUP OF SURFING

How about those shirts in the VANS triple crown of surfing booth :
Dane Gaudaskaus looked like Jeff Spicoloi’s twin brother.
Or the love child of Jeff spicoli and the Geiko insurance cavemen twins.
The problem with the VANS webcast is that the production is playing to the lowest common denominator, the 15 year-old. Guess what, we the surf fans, we are intelligent, we are 25, 35, 45, 55 years old. Please treat us that way.

KOOK OF THE WEEK: Kolohe Andino Sunset Beach meltdown –
He smashes is hand into his surfboard over and over and over and over and…very hard, almost scripted, as if to say, “see, I do care that I lost.” Manny Paquiao on meth.
Look, it’s okay to be pissed. I like it that he cares. But … he sorta looks like spoiled OC surf prodigy… oh wait, he is…
childish. I hope he matures a bit, this is his second public meltdown. I’m a fan. Cool down a bit, Kolohe.


Mick Fanning and Chas Smith celebrating Hanukkah.

Welcome to Paradise Now Go to Hell – Chas Smith’s new book – must read, very well written, honest, sincere, look at the surfing’s Mecca, the North Shore, in all its… its…. its…. the drama, the politics, the waves, the personalities, the history… and all of it comes to you from Chas Smith without any surf industry bro-brah filter or goggles. Honest, funny, clever, (dressed impeccable) edgy — but without malice.


MUST SEE MOMENT

Nat Young turns 66 years old today – here’s a clip from Encyclopedia of Surfing

Nat Young 1970 from ENCYCLOPEDIA of SURFING videos on Vimeo.